Sigmund Freud, the father of psychoanalysis, is a name still known by so many people today though he pioneered exploration of the human mind in the early to mid 1900’s...
Author - Doug Honeyman
Douglas Honeyman began surfing at age 63 and it is the most rich and fun activity he has been immersed in since he was a young man. Being retired as a licensed psychologist, he is able to take to the waves around Ventura California almost daily. Doug favors a longboard and likes to learn in his own way and to find his own natural style and rush, within the limits of age and experience. He began skateboarding at age 66 on a downhill longboard that he made, and though he's careful of dem ole bones, he likes to bomb moderate hills and slalom parking lots. As a writer, he enjoys finding storyline on the outer face of life and blend that with dimensions of our less known interior life. He relies on flow, as he does in surfing and skating. He supposes he is somewhat like a visual artist whose eye is always informed by the mind behind the eye. Therefore, he isn't always sure what will flow out onto paper and silicon. Hah!
During this time he, “got more into yoga, and started to recognize that my body would need the yoga in order to keep surfing. That the yoga was a complementary practice...
The ability to physically balance ourselves as we stand and move around is mostly taken for granted because so much of this functioning has become automatic ever since...
Maybe from the outside surfing looks mainly athletic. It may look like hard work. Or to some observers, it may seem like play. Or perhaps to other shoreline watchers the...
Though often Don may appear more aggressive in his attack than others, the fluidity is not lost. He carves his characteristic well-managed way down the living, shifting...
I have heard that how we live our twenty-four seven lives makes a difference in our surfing worlds. This makes common sense to me. When we feel good, content, fresh...
The lone surfer was the first one on the water the day of the swell. The brief but strong pulse filled in over night and should begin to fade around noon – get out here...
We each could riff on about its importance to us, take a personal cut through what it means to surf. Here’s one brief and rambling slice of the moment.