I knew this was coming.
With technology advancing and the laziness of the culture seeping into our everyday reality (there are more obese Americans than ever before) the inevitability of jet powered surfboards was just a matter of time.
My friend now does all his exercise on his Wii, dude get a life and go outside!
It’s not just the ride that attracts me to surfing, it’s the entire experience of the paddle, the duck-diving, the wait between sets, the conversation with friends, the stillines that the ocean seems to pull out of you in all its grander and majesty.
Hell, there is even some joy in the hustle of putting on your wetsuit and walking out to the surf.
I went to Chicama, Peru, a few years ago and surfed that epic left on a solid swell.
The rip was so strong that you had to walk 30 minutes to the top of the point to get back in position for the take-off.
There were a bunch of guys using a boat to return to the main peak and though a part of me longed for the ease of their system there was something about that long walk and paddle into the impact zone that still is with me today, something that those boat surfers never got a chance to experience.
What’s next? Ipads in our surfboard decks, water-proof ipods (yea, they already exist) cell phones in the line-up? ‘Attention surfers, this is a cell phone free zone, all cell phone users please go to the red flagged area!’
Don’t even get me started on the toxicity of batteries. Use your arms dude!
Yea, I am sure it’s all on its way. Hopefully they’ll make a Wii with a built-in surfboard so all the kooks can just stay in their living-rooms and surf.
I’d rather paddle out old school style, wait for the sets, and talk to my friends in the line-up. How about you?